[Systems Engineering Teachers' Mailing List] great project idea from Tony at Intellecta

Neville YOUNG NYO at gwsc.vic.edu.au
Wed Jun 11 09:03:47 EST 2014


The printer needs to be in an enclosure. This is/was a common problem with 3D printers. There is a lot of information on line about this problem.



Neville Young

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From: syseng-bounces at edulists.com.au [syseng-bounces at edulists.com.au] on behalf of DAVID FLETCHER [dgfletch at bigpond.net.au]
Sent: Tuesday, 10 June 2014 4:28 PM
To: syseng at edulists.com.au
Subject: [Systems Engineering Teachers' Mailing List] great project idea from Tony at Intellecta


From: esnet [mailto:esnet-bounces at iiate.asn.au] On Behalf Of Tony Pugatschew
Sent: Tuesday, 10 June 2014 2:50 PM
To: 'ESNET @ iiate'
Subject: Re: [esnet] Cold and warping issues on the UP!, print speed

Ideal opportunity to extend the concept and link some key areas. We always seem to have many posts regarding electronics projects and here is one!!

Could we do something a little more related to electronics/STEM concepts.?
Lets make a temperature controlled environment  ( links to air cons, temp controlled ovens, car climate control, how does body regulate, what to use for insulation, thermal mass, green house design, trombe walls in construction, double brick design, SIP panels and integrated insulation and it goes on).

For example,
Find an appropriate temperature sensor – thermistor or PT100 or thermocouple ( what is the sensor used in the UP! heater plate??)
Look at the output characteristics – linear/non linear – hey !! Sounds a little like mathematics
Can we convert the raw output of the sensor – current/voltage or something else to temperature – sounds like calibration/fitting to some sort of function.
How do we control a heater – do we use an incandescent lamp  or some other heater?
How do we set up a thermostat – do we measure the temperature and turn on the heater full bore because you will overshoot the temperature setting?
Do we use a bit-bang or proportional control -?  Again mathematics
Nice to use a microcontroller because we can show the temperature on a display or use a potentiometer to set the desired temp
What to do if you lose control of the sensing and your heater goes on and on – brings in the concept of aggressive programming and thinking ahead.

Notice that the activities are more than just assembling a kit, soldering it!.

OR DO WE JUST BUILD A BOX ?

Thanks
Tony Pugatschew

[cid:image004.jpg at 01CF84B7.0CB93660]







From: esnet [mailto:esnet-bounces at iiate.asn.au] On Behalf Of Nordstrom, Andrew
Sent: Tuesday, 10 June 2014 9:57 AM
To: ESNET @ iiate
Subject: Re: [esnet] Cold and warping issues on the UP!, print speed

re warping due to cold and the up2
many overseas schools (read far northern hemisphere) report success enclosing the printer in a clear plastic case, or some other thermal casing

Andrew Nordstrom
Head Teacher Technology/Visual Arts
Sarah Redfern High School
Phone (02) 9820 1566
Fax    (02) 9820 3050
Email  andrew.nordstrom at det.nsw.edu.au<mailto:andrew.nordstrom at det.nsw.edu.au>
P  Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail
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From: esnet [esnet-bounces at iiate.asn.au] On Behalf Of Tony Pugatschew [support at intellecta.net]
Sent: Saturday, 7 June 2014 10:44 AM
To: ESNET @ iiate
Subject: [esnet] Cold and warping issues on the UP!, print speed
Dear All,
Getting a flood of calls re the UP! warping issues. Seems to be related to the onset of winter.
Here are some suggestions that hopefully can help.

a)      Make sure the bed is flat. If you are having warping on a corner then the bed is not flat.

b)      Keep it warm – hard to do on the UP! Plus but easy on the UP! Mini ( enclosed)

c)       Check the print plate – could be dusty.

d)      Level position – I adjust the height until I feel a “grab” on a piece of 80gsm paper.

e)      Examine the print bed PCB.

f)       Check orientation of part – try to keep the thicker parts as vertical walls and minimise the base thickness.
I have had great success with a 3mm grey tile material. Cut with an angle grinder fitted with diamond blade.
I spray with the clear spray – Little squirts from Bunno’s. Sticks really well and needs a chisel to remove.
In fact, the print sticks so well that an infrequent expletive seems to assist – do this away from earshot of students.!

[cid:image001.jpg at 01CF84B5.94A8EF40]

Had questions on print speed.
If you are having trouble getting through a design because of time then examine the design. Additive printing is slow and this often left out of the seductive spin marketing hype. I have only seen the time mentioned twice in articles – kayak took 45 days and the car body took 13 months to print. Get the students to appreciate the layer thickness. Is it necessary to print at 0.2mm layer thickness when 0.4mm is fine and a lick with acetone will smooth the surface?. The higher accuracy is important if you have small angled features.

Solution in a school is simple – get more Printers!! . The baby up minis $650 ex GST and you can get a couple. These have proved to be most reliable and have survived a drop down some stairs. We can help with these but the waiting time is about 4 weeks!!!

The other suggestion on print adherence is to gently push up on the first layer print so the raft really beds down. You can remove the pressure after the first layer.

Hope this info helps and happy printing!


Tony Pugatschew
08 8351 8288
Local mobile: 0419 801 392
Email: support at intellecta.net<mailto:support at intellecta.net>




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